Tag Archives: Travel pics

Morocco Diary: Patterns of Morocco

Lining doorways, covering floors and adorning fountains, mosques, and ancient tombs, Morocco is a country of patterns and colour. I spotted them at almost every turn and couldn’t resist capturing them.

Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries

‘Zellige’ tiles, truly an art form requiring skilled workmanship, are created by cutting, paining and assembling tiny fragments of enamel into a geometric pattern before setting them in plaster on a terracotta base. The designs are rooted in Islamic tradition as a way to express beauty through shapes rather than by depicting living beings which would be forbidden.

Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries

I actually brought four painted tiles back home, added a felt backing and now have them as a beautiful set of coasters on my coffee table (). Naturally I also picked up a couple of gorgeous bowls for my kitchen – you might have spotted one of them housing my Vegan Mushroom Bourguignon!

Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu DiariesPatterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries

Where is the most colourful place you have visited?

Morocco Diary: Glimpses of Essaouira

Following on from my last post with information and tips for visiting Essaouira and ways to explore the town, here are some more glimpses of this Moroccan treasure that was once the country’s biggest and most important port:

Essaouira 28Essaouira 1 Essaouira 25 Essaouira 24 Essaouira 22 Essaouira 21 Essaouira 20 Essaouira 15 Essaouira 13 Essaouira 14 Essaouira 12 Essaouira 11 Essaouira 9 Essaouira 8 Essaouira 7 Essaouira 4You can view the rest of my Morocco diary here and my travel section for more destinations!

Morocco Diary: Ways to Explore Essaouira

Essaouira (‘essa-weera’) lies located on the Western coast of Morocco, encircled by a fortress hugging the Atlantic Ocean. The town presents a more laid-back side of Morocco and in the heat of the summer you can find respite from the inland temperatures; during my visit in July where Marrakech was reaching up to 45C, Essaouira was a full fifteen to twenty degrees cooler. The breeze from the Atlantic blows strong here making the windswept beach a watersport haven (more on that later), whilst the medina is filled with whitewashed buildings and vibrant blue shuttered windows.Essaouira 27Getting there: Flights only run to Essaouira airport from France so the if you’re travelling from elsewhere then it is easiest to travel via Marrakech. Buses come and go from an office located just outside of the medina and take three hours with a short stop halfway. Once a day there’s a “comfort plus” bus (100dh one way) that lives up to its name, but for the reasonably short journey the standard ones (70dh) also tend to be in good condition and not over-crowded.Essaouira 19Top tip: You will need buy a separate luggage ticket when travelling on the Suprabus. It is only 5 dirhams but you have to ask for it. If travelling from Marrakech to Essaouira, it can be bought from the office next door to the main station.Essaouira 3Where to stay: The medina has a host of accommodation options and is the perfect location being filled with cafés and restaurants and easy access to the bus station. Traditional Moroccan riads, a house with a courtyard garden and often a rooftop pool or terrace, stay cool in their interior making them an ideal option if you want something with an authentic feel in the heart of town. I stayed in Caverne d’Ali Baba and would highly recommend it for its beautiful decor, friendly owner and breakfast served on the rooftop with views over the medina.

Ways to Explore Essaouira

Walk the WaterfrontEssaouira 18Passing through the souks in the medina, you can reach the old fortress walls. Atop the walls is a wide promenade to stroll along, lined with canons and with views out across the rocks to the ocean. Just along the waterfront from the medina walls is Essaouira’s port and fish market. The mass of blue boats and stunning views looking back on the old town make it a gorgeous spot, but be warned: the smell is something to be reckoned with.Essaouira 26A few minutes walk further along the coast is Essaouira’s beach, frequented by both locals and tourists alike. There are a couple of areas with sunbeds to rent or if the wind isn’t too high you can take a towel to the sand. If you are feeling fresh on your feet, you can walk the length of the beach to the sand dunes where there is plentiful opportunity to take a camel ride.

Shop the SouksEssaouira 17Bursting with treasures waiting to be discovered – and haggled for – the souks are a maze of pedestrianised lanes. The edges are lined with small shops selling pottery, clothing, rugs, artisan wooden crafts and paintings to name a small section of what is on offer. The main streets have a bustling market that runs during the day, a mainstay for the local population.Essaouira 5There are also plenty of stores selling argan oil – many of these sell oil produced by women’s collectives set up in rural villages to provide fair incomes and livelihoods. As well as cosmetic argan oil, creams and other products, you can also buy Moroccan oil for food use. The deliciously nutty flavour makes it perfect for salad dressings (expect a recipe one day soon!)Essaouira 6Top tip: If you are only travelling with hand luggage on your flight, make sure any oils you buy are within the 100ml limit.

Hit the Waves

Reliable winds and ideal water conditions make Essaouira a top watersports destination with surfing, kitesurfing and windsurfing possible all year round. Right through from beginners courses at the beach to more challenging conditions for pros outside of town, there are options for all levels.Essaouira 10Instruction is available in English and various other languages through many of the watersports centres. Always check any equipment beforehand and that instructors are fully qualified. Based in Essaouira, Explora is a kitesurf, windsurf and surf centre who are partnered with VDWS, IKO and the Moroccan Surf Federation to make sure that their staff are fully trained and safety standards are high. They offer surfing trips to six destinations in and around Essaouira, including to La Grotte which boasts the biggest waves in the area if you’re feeling confident.

Keep an eye out for more photos and foodie tips that I’ll be sharing in upcoming installments of my Morocco Diary. How do you like to explore a new place?

Morocco Diary: Jardin Majorelle

Set in the heart of the new part of the city, Jardin Majorelle is an oasis filled with bamboo, palms, cacti, and pools filled with lilies. The gardens were originally created over a period of forty years by French artist Jacques Majorelle. His passion for travel and for botany led him to fill the garden with rare and exotic plants collected along the way. He chose vibrant cobalt and shades of ochre to complement the greens and evoke the intensity of its African setting.Jardin Majorelle 16 Jardin Majorelle 17      Jardin Majorelle 11Jardin Majorelle 13 Jardin Majorelle 5Jardin Majorelle 15 Jardin Majorelle 6Finally finished in the 1930s, but not opened to the public until 1947, Jardin Majorelle had sadly fallen into disrepair by the 1960s. It wasn’t until 1980 that things began to look up when Yves Saint Laurent bought the gardens and restored them to their former beauty. Upon his death, Yves Saint Laurent’s ashes were scattered here and the gardens given as a gift to the city.Jardin Majorelle 8 Jardin Majorelle 14Jardin Majorelle 12      Jardin Majorelle 10These days the gardens offer a beautiful respite from the heat and hecticness of Marrakech. Gleaming russet paths snake around the lush greenery and chirping birds bring the garden to life. There is a small Berber museum (worth visiting for the surreal lighting alone) and a gorgeous walled café with a stunning selection of teas on offer (and prices to match). The café also boasts a sprinkler-type system, as found in many local restaurants, that lets out bursts of cool mist at frequent intervals – just the thing for a summertime visit.Jardin Majorelle 1    Jardin Majorelle 4 Jardin Majorelle 3 Jardin Majorelle 2Jardin Majorelle 9Entrance to the gardens is 50Dhs and the museum is 25Dhs. The gardens are best reached by a short taxi ride away from the medina which should cost no more than 30-40 dirham. The address? Rue Yves Saint Laurent, of course. Jardin Majorelle 7What is the most beautiful garden you have ever visited?

Sicily Diary: Palermitan Street Food | StrEat Palermo Tour

Walking is always my preferred method of exploring and getting to know a city for the first time. Taking a walking tour is usually a fantastic introduction; giving you insights into different parts of town, interesting anecdotal tales of history and, more often than not, straying off the more well-trodden routes. It’s no wonder then that, just before heading off to Sicily recently, I was doubly excited to hear via Twitter about StrEat Palermo Tour: a walking tour around Palermo that combines the above with a foodie twist.

Rated in the top five cities for street food, Palermo is a place to indulge and a walking tour all about food seemed the perfect way to legitimately stuff our faces learn more about the city’s street food culture.StrEat Palermo Tour GuideThe StrEat Palermo Tour kicks off at 10:30 from Piazza Verdi in front of the Massimo Theatre (recognisable from the closing scenes of The Godfather III I hear – I’ve been having a bit of a Godfather marathon since getting back but haven’t made it that far yet!) and the first stop is the nearby market. Before setting off, our guide Marco were presented us with our ‘Passaporto del Mangione’ or Foodie’s Passport’ to prove that we were tasting everything along the way.

Snaking off the main square, the market winds its way through narrow medieval streets lined with vendors selling the freshest of fresh ingredients. Much to my delight, I spotted various vegetables I’d never seen before such as the beautiful round Tunisian aubergine and cucuzza, the near-metre long Sicilian courgette.2 StrEat Palermo - Fruit Markets 3 StrEat Palermo - Vegetable Markets 4 StrEat Palermo - Produce MarketsOur first stop, in the heart of the market, was for an array of fried goodies: Cazzilli (mashed potato croquettes with parsley and mint), Arancina (fried risotto balls with saffron and cheese – made without ham for a veggie version) and Panelle (thin chickpea fritters). Whilst our food cooked we all dipped into a nearby church to take a look around. Almost certainly one of the most impressive churches that I saw in Sicily (look out for photos coming soon!) and one we would have never spotted for ourselves, Marco also gave us some fascinating insights into Palermitans’ beliefs and their love of Santa Rosalia – whether for religious reasons or just for the hope she will support them in football…!5 StrEat Palermo Tour 6 StrEat Palermo - Stop 1 text 7 StrEat Palermo TourThe next stop was at a cart serving fresh Sfinciuni. This Palermitan soft pizza has a thick soft, almost spongy base soaked with tomato then topped with oregano and (optional) chilli. The bread is fired within the cart itself giving it crisp edges that perfectly complement the fluffy interior.8 StrEat Palermo - Stop 2 textWinding further through the markets, next on the list was a more alcoholic pit-stop: Sicilian sweet wines Sangue Siciliana (which translates as “Sicilian Blood” but is thankfully less gory than that sounds!) and the lighter Zibibbo. Both were sweet and warming, though not necessarily something I could drink in any great quantity. The establishment itself was a small bar run by a lively and very entertaining group of gentlemen. The longer stop also offered some welcome respite from the midday heat, leaving us all refreshed for what lay ahead…9 StrEat Palermo - Stop 3 text 10 StrEat Palermo TourMoving on, we got back onto the street and made our way through some interesting alleyways and squares with the odd bit of street art here and there – an area that comes to life later in the night. Our next stop had been anticipated with mixed feelings. Or it had for the rest of the group as the delicacy there was Pane ca’ Meusa…a lung and spleen sandwich. Luckily for me, I didn’t have to completely skip out on trying anything new and was presented with a much more palatable sandwich filled with slices of fried aubergine. The spleen (I’ve saved you all from any photos of it) surprisingly received rather positive reviews from the group but I was satisfied with my veggie alternative!StrEat Palermo Tour Aubergine SandwichFinally, after a tiring morning of walking and eating (such hard work!) it was time for lunch (yes, more food!) We already had the impression that Marco had carefully selected each of the street food stops, and lunch confirmed this. Tucked away and definitely somewhere we would never have known about otherwise, lunch took place in a beautiful high-ceilinged hall where we were served chilled wine, tasty Sicilian Caponata (slow cooked aubergine, tomatoes, olives, and celery), and an array of cheeses. A standout for me had to be the pistachio cheese; the Sicilian inclination to add pistachio to almost anything is fine by me!11 StrEat Palermo - Stop 5 textAs if we weren’t full enough by now, there was of course just enough room left for dessert. Also hidden away from the main hustle and bustle, the bakery we visited serves freshly filled Cannoli. A Sicilian classic, Cannoli is a tube of crispy pastry filled with sweet, creamy ricotta cheese. The contrast between the two textures and flavours is heavenly. We all opted for the large ones and didn’t regret it. The store also boasted a giant Cannoli tube which led to some speculation on how anyone would go about eating it…?12 StrEat Palermo - Stop 6 text13 StrEat Palermo Tour (36)Sufficiently full and then some, we ended for the day four and a half hours later with a trip into and up to the top of Palermo Cathedral. Worth it for the views, climbing all of the stairs up also made us feel a little less guilty about eating quite so much!

As we progressed throughout the day, we gained stamps in our Foodie Passport to prove we really had tried it all. This was a very nice touch and made it much easier to remember the names of everything we ate. We did manage to forget our last stamp though; I could have got away with claiming we skipped dessert but then I wouldn’t have been able to tell you how amazing it was!15 StrEat Palermo - Passport textOverall, the day was an absolute pleasure. I hope I’ve given you all a glimpse here but without giving everything away as I would urge you to take the tour if you are ever visiting Sicily. Both my boyfriend and I loved the day (he even seemed to enjoy the spleen…). The food was incredible and Marco was friendly, entertaining and knowledgeable; everything we could have asked for in a guide!

For me, the tour was ideal to find out what street food is veggie early in the trip and made me feel much more comfortable ordering these dishes again. I’d never thought before to specifically search for food walking tours before but this is going to be top of my agenda for future trips!

You can find out more about StrEat Palermo on their website or connect via .

*I was a guest on the tour for the purposes of this review, but it was truly a highlight of my time in Sicily :)

Pane ca’ Meusa (lung/spleen sandwich)

Pane ca’ Meusa (lung/spleen sandwich)

Pane ca’ Meusa (lung/spleen sandwich)