Category Archives: Travel

France Diary: Montpellier Street Art

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Less well-visited than some of its neighbours in the South of France, Montpellier is a laid-back city with a historic quarter full of charm. One of its main draws is just the chance to wander the backstreets, soaking in the atmosphere and ducking in and out of its many independent shops, cafés and bars.

Another element I couldn’t help but notice too was the street art and the different forms it manifested in – some deserve a closer look to see what is really there..!

Montpellier Street Art 1Montpellier Street Art 3Montpellier Street Art 2 Montpellier Street Art 5Montpellier Street Art 6 Montpellier Street Art 7 Montpellier Street Art 8 Montpellier Street Art 9 Montpellier Street Art 10 Montpellier Street Art 11  Montpellier Street Art 4Montpellier Street Art 12

If you didn’t spot it first time around, take another look at #8 and #11, can you see it now?

Do you ever see street art in your city?

France Diary: Vegetarian Montpellier

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France, even more so than many places, isn’t blessed with the best veg-friendly reputation. Fortunately, I am pleased to report that on my recent trip I found it far from impossible to eat well. Being vegetarian in France did of course require a little pre-planning but many French people currently have a strong taste for “bio” (organic) restaurants, most of which feature plentiful vegetarian and often vegan options.Being Vegetarian in France

I travelled to Montpellier in October and can safely say the food was up there as one of the trip’s highlights. It does seem that the diet in the south of France is more accommodating than further north so I am going to focus specifically on sharing some fantastic places to dine in this city and its surrounding areas. However, if you are visiting elsewhere in France, then hopefully it can still provide a good starting point for your research on vegetarian travel.

Je Suis Vegetarienne – Tips for Being Veggie in France

  • More so than in many countries, the word ‘vegetarienne’ does seem to be understood by quite a few people – or at least is worth using as a starting point. An understanding of the term doesn’t always mean that you will be offered a vegetarian option, of course
  • It is always worth asking if a vegetarian option is available. Many places are willing to accommodate even if it is not listed on the menu and other establishments seem to be willing but require advance notice
  • As mentioned earlier, “bio” restaurants are both popular and serve vegetarian and vegan food. This website seems to be a directory of bio restaurants in France; though only in French, there is a clickable map broken up into provinces so you can search for where you are visiting
  • If you have trouble finding vegan options in the area you are staying, opt to for accommodation with a kitchen as you won’t be disappointed by the fresh, high quality produce available.

Vegetarian Montpellier

Le Bourgeon, Located on a quiet street in the historical centre of the city, Le Bourgeon serves up organic burgers with many variations on offer. You can also choose between three different sizes and sides of salad and/or chips. The outdoor seating is constructed from wooden pallets with a strawberry plant on each table. The food was fresh with nice touches such as the herb salad that is served on top of the burgers and the side salad being presented in a jar. Great for a filling lunch.

 

Playfood, A creative experience, Playfood offers its dishes in shotglass-sized portions. This imaginative approach allows you to sample all kinds of treats during your visit; the set menu includes twelve mini main courses and six desserts between two people. Six of the twelve main courses are vegetarian (some are vegan but I’m not sure exactly how many) so between two people you could have six veggie ones each or, as Pete and I did, have veggie for one person and a mix of veg and meat choices for the other. Highlights included the key lime pie, salted caramel tiramisu and friendly, helpful staff. Great for a unique evening meal.

 

L’Alchimiste, L’Alchimiste offers a lavish three course evening meal which, unlike many of its neighbours, includes a vegetarian option for each of these. Rich delicious flavours and an unusual amuse bouche that incorporates popcorn (it just about works) make it ideal for splashing out. The cheesecake is best avoided though. Great for an indulgent evening meal.

 

La Part des Agnes, In the town of Sete, located on the Mediterranean coast just twenty minutes by train away from Montpellier, La part des Agnes specialises in organic food and drinks. Their menu of the day always offers a vegetarian option; on the day I visited it was a tart, available plain or with a choice of three different local cheeses. The outdoor seating extends to the opposite side of the road where the tables line the edge of the canal. Perfect for a laid back lunch.

You can find more tips on vegetarian travel here. Have you visited France as a veggie? How was your experience?

Morocco Diary: Patterns of Morocco

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Lining doorways, covering floors and adorning fountains, mosques, and ancient tombs, Morocco is a country of patterns and colour. I spotted them at almost every turn and couldn’t resist capturing them.

Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries

‘Zellige’ tiles, truly an art form requiring skilled workmanship, are created by cutting, paining and assembling tiny fragments of enamel into a geometric pattern before setting them in plaster on a terracotta base. The designs are rooted in Islamic tradition as a way to express beauty through shapes rather than by depicting living beings which would be forbidden.

Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries

I actually brought four painted tiles back home, added a felt backing and now have them as a beautiful set of coasters on my coffee table (). Naturally I also picked up a couple of gorgeous bowls for my kitchen – you might have spotted one of them housing my Vegan Mushroom Bourguignon!

Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu DiariesPatterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries Patterns of Morocco | The Tofu Diaries

Where is the most colourful place you have visited?

Morocco Diary: Glimpses of Essaouira

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Following on from my last post with information and tips for visiting Essaouira and ways to explore the town, here are some more glimpses of this Moroccan treasure that was once the country’s biggest and most important port:

Essaouira 28Essaouira 1 Essaouira 25 Essaouira 24 Essaouira 22 Essaouira 21 Essaouira 20 Essaouira 15 Essaouira 13 Essaouira 14 Essaouira 12 Essaouira 11 Essaouira 9 Essaouira 8 Essaouira 7 Essaouira 4You can view the rest of my Morocco diary here and my travel section for more destinations!

Morocco Diary: Ways to Explore Essaouira

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Essaouira (‘essa-weera’) lies located on the Western coast of Morocco, encircled by a fortress hugging the Atlantic Ocean. The town presents a more laid-back side of Morocco and in the heat of the summer you can find respite from the inland temperatures; during my visit in July where Marrakech was reaching up to 45C, Essaouira was a full fifteen to twenty degrees cooler. The breeze from the Atlantic blows strong here making the windswept beach a watersport haven (more on that later), whilst the medina is filled with whitewashed buildings and vibrant blue shuttered windows.Essaouira 27Getting there: Flights only run to Essaouira airport from France so the if you’re travelling from elsewhere then it is easiest to travel via Marrakech. Buses come and go from an office located just outside of the medina and take three hours with a short stop halfway. Once a day there’s a “comfort plus” bus (100dh one way) that lives up to its name, but for the reasonably short journey the standard ones (70dh) also tend to be in good condition and not over-crowded.Essaouira 19Top tip: You will need buy a separate luggage ticket when travelling on the Suprabus. It is only 5 dirhams but you have to ask for it. If travelling from Marrakech to Essaouira, it can be bought from the office next door to the main station.Essaouira 3Where to stay: The medina has a host of accommodation options and is the perfect location being filled with cafés and restaurants and easy access to the bus station. Traditional Moroccan riads, a house with a courtyard garden and often a rooftop pool or terrace, stay cool in their interior making them an ideal option if you want something with an authentic feel in the heart of town. I stayed in Caverne d’Ali Baba and would highly recommend it for its beautiful decor, friendly owner and breakfast served on the rooftop with views over the medina.

Ways to Explore Essaouira

Walk the WaterfrontEssaouira 18Passing through the souks in the medina, you can reach the old fortress walls. Atop the walls is a wide promenade to stroll along, lined with canons and with views out across the rocks to the ocean. Just along the waterfront from the medina walls is Essaouira’s port and fish market. The mass of blue boats and stunning views looking back on the old town make it a gorgeous spot, but be warned: the smell is something to be reckoned with.Essaouira 26A few minutes walk further along the coast is Essaouira’s beach, frequented by both locals and tourists alike. There are a couple of areas with sunbeds to rent or if the wind isn’t too high you can take a towel to the sand. If you are feeling fresh on your feet, you can walk the length of the beach to the sand dunes where there is plentiful opportunity to take a camel ride.

Shop the SouksEssaouira 17Bursting with treasures waiting to be discovered – and haggled for – the souks are a maze of pedestrianised lanes. The edges are lined with small shops selling pottery, clothing, rugs, artisan wooden crafts and paintings to name a small section of what is on offer. The main streets have a bustling market that runs during the day, a mainstay for the local population.Essaouira 5There are also plenty of stores selling argan oil – many of these sell oil produced by women’s collectives set up in rural villages to provide fair incomes and livelihoods. As well as cosmetic argan oil, creams and other products, you can also buy Moroccan oil for food use. The deliciously nutty flavour makes it perfect for salad dressings (expect a recipe one day soon!)Essaouira 6Top tip: If you are only travelling with hand luggage on your flight, make sure any oils you buy are within the 100ml limit.

Hit the Waves

Reliable winds and ideal water conditions make Essaouira a top watersports destination with surfing, kitesurfing and windsurfing possible all year round. Right through from beginners courses at the beach to more challenging conditions for pros outside of town, there are options for all levels.Essaouira 10Instruction is available in English and various other languages through many of the watersports centres. Always check any equipment beforehand and that instructors are fully qualified. Based in Essaouira, Explora is a kitesurf, windsurf and surf centre who are partnered with VDWS, IKO and the Moroccan Surf Federation to make sure that their staff are fully trained and safety standards are high. They offer surfing trips to six destinations in and around Essaouira, including to La Grotte which boasts the biggest waves in the area if you’re feeling confident.

Keep an eye out for more photos and foodie tips that I’ll be sharing in upcoming installments of my Morocco Diary. How do you like to explore a new place?